Hello my dear friends! Today is an atypical Wednesday since we will not talk about wine but about a very special distillate, a product that reflects years of tradition and culture, mezcal. Recently, invited by 'El Rey Zapoteco', a leading mezcal producer in Oaxaca, my colleague Elizabeth Campos and I came face to face with the production process at the distillery. Today we want to share a bit of our experience with you. May this post also be a celebration of 'Battle of Puebla Day', which in the United States has become the very popular Cinco de Mayo holiday, a tribute to Mexican heritage.
Back to mezcal, the rise of its popularity over the years is undeniable, scattered across most cocktail menus and part of all mixologist repertoire it has become a big part cocktail culture. The production of mezcal today looks very much like it did hundreds of years ago and is a source of pride for many small farmers and producers.
THE ORIGIN
The agave was a sacred and mythical plant in pre-Spanish Mexico. The Mexican culture passes down the myth that mezcal originated when an agave plant was struck by a lightning. The inside of the plant, called the "piña" (in English pineapple, for its resemblance to the fruit), was cooked and the juices released. The juice of the agave, because of this tale, is known as “elixir of the gods”. When the Spanish came to Mexico during their conquest, they brought along their own liquor. This, of course, eventually ran out. The Spanish were left to find a substitute. The Spanish Crown discouraged the use of sugarcane and grapes for distillation, so they instead turned to the agave plant.
The distillation process in general was introduced in Mexico in the 16th century. It then spread during the 17th century and by 18th century it was of common use in the country. Mezcal, aguardiente and tequila were the main products resulting from this process. Tequila is typically produced by steaming agave inside industrial ovens before distilling it two or three times in copper pots. Mezcal, on the other hand, is cooked inside earthen pits lined with lava rocks and filled with wood and charcoal before being distilled in clay pots. That's the main difference between they two and while some large-scale mezcal producers have adopted modern methods, artisanal mezcal makers continue to use this more traditional method, which is the source of the smokiness commonly associated with mezcal.
Oaxaca, land of El Rey Zapoteco
Mezcal is produced in almost every place in Mexico where there is agave. The northern mezcals are famous and in particular those from Oaxaca, a region considered the world capital of mezcal. From this dazzling area emerges El Rey Zapoteco, a premium artisanal mezcal that was first produced more than half a century ago, in 1960 by the second generation of the Hernández family.
The flavor and quality of this certified brand of mezcal is the result of a careful process that goes from growing the agave to bottling, offering one of the most genuine beverages in the world. El Rey Zapoteco values pure spring or well water as an essential element as it influences the flavor that is extracted from the agave plant. The process begins by cutting the leaves and roots when the agave reaches maturity (minimum 8 years and up to 30 years depending on the species), leaving only the heart. The "piñas" are then cut into pieces and baked in a natural underground oven on wood and stone. This step lasts from 4 days to 7 days depending on the amount of agave leaves. The cooked shards are cut up again and placed in a stone mill. The stone is pulled by a horse, grinding and extracting the juice from the pieces of agave. The ground agaves are placed in wooden vats with water, which allows them to ferment using only 100% natural yeasts and microorganisms (no added chemicals). The fermented product, called “tepache”, is distilled twice in copper pot stills, creating the exquisite mezcal. In some cases, the mezcal is placed in oak barrels to age for longer periods of time.
Once the mash is fermented and distilled, it is bottled and sold. There are three general types of spirit. Similar to how there are light and dark rums, mezcal comes in different shades that affect the flavor. "Joven", meaning young, is un-aged and is light or clear. Darker mezcal is called "reposado". The darkest mezcal is "añejo". Typically, the darker the spirt, the smoother the taste.
Though most of the production is left unaltered, it can come in a variety of flavors. Producers can and will add anything during the fermenting process to add flavor. Stopping by a mezcal shop in Oaxaca offers visitors dozens of fruit or herb-flavored varieties to sample: apple, cinnamon, avocado, plum, often whatever happens to be growing in the garden. There are even creamy varieties.
The Tradition
Untouched by time , mezcal is made in the traditional way: with mule and farmer muscle, in open-air baking pits and open-topped fermenting tubs...
Mezcal is firmly rooted in Mexico’s cultural traditions. A well-known adage in the Oaxacan region is “Para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien, también,” which translates to “For everything bad, mezcal, and for everything good, too.” They drink it to celebrate and they drink it to commiserate.
The spirit is also a part of many cultural celebrations. A big part of the Mexican wedding tradition is the calenda, a wedding procession through the streets. The bride and groom, with their family and friends, parade down the streets, singing and dancing and handing out shots. A modern addition to the ritual is beaded necklaces with shot glasses attached to them, which members of the party will hand out to onlookers so they can share in the festivities.
We are wrapping up today's post with a few photos of our visit to El Rey Zapoteco, a product that for sure we will talk about again in the future!
Have a happy week and... let's meet here next Wednesday again!
Until then, Santé and Happy 5 de Mayo!
